The first thing you need to do is decide on a style that suits your needs and your purpose. For oil quenching steels. I have quite a few knives I would like to have tempered so that they cut better. The knives I have made are what I assume to be mild steel, coming from sources like hedge clippers and lawnmower blades. It is impractical because it is expensive. 2 years ago. So my question is: Is possible to heat it too hot before quenching? Forge Furnace Size & Salt Baths: I would much appreciate your advice on the following. Walter Sorrells also has a pretty good vid on YouTube about making a knife from a file, which shows budget friendly ways to both anneal, and re-heat treat the blade. Good criticism is how to learn. Let’s get into it! - BC fire extinguisher (the kind that puts out grease and oil fires) The sequence I use is to heat the blade until it becomes non magnetic, then stick it back into the forge and push/pull the blade's full length through the heat once more, making sure the piece is evenly colored. - kitchen oven Put the lid back on your quenching container to smother any flames. Every piece of literature related to backyard knife making I could find gives a foreboding note about angry women coming after you for smoking up their kitchens by leaving motor oil covered steel scraps in the oven. Use a coffee can or similarly shaped container as your quenching chamber. - guru. No matter what you call it “the box” needs to have the capability to get to the desired temperature and stay there for the prescribed amount of time. This means it hardens rapidly compared to other tool steels, making heat treatment potentially difficult. I don't have any links handy, but I've seen some research that suggests that Canola oil is almost frightenly close to Parks 50 parameters, and that's why it's recommended for the backyard blacksmiths. The correct hardness depends on the application of the steel being treated. There are those who want you to believe the only way to achieve a good heat treat is by using a temperature regulated heat treating oven, soaking for 15.7 minutes, normalized 2.3 times, and then quenched in park's knife heat treating oil raised to exactly 134.6 degrees Fahrenheit. And then there are those who firmly believe that a knife can only be properly heat treated at midnight exactly, underneath a full lunar eclipse, quenched in a tank of boiling dragon's blood when the knife glows cherry red (with the blade pointing due north), and then tempered by holding above burning coals (made of carbonized diamonds) until the metal turns golden-brown. At that point the forge is upwards of 2500 degrees Fahrenheit, and almost too bright to look at directly. Just be careful - if any part of you gets between the blade and magnet, you can get a red hot knife stuck to your finger! The heating element is busted, but as we just want the air it doesn't matter. My least favorite part. 4. It is also a good idea to have an airtight lid for the container to smother flames. I used the roughest stone I have (100 – 200 grit stone from the hardware store) to put the edge back on the blade. Salt melts at 1474 degrees, so as soon as the salt melts, you know it has hit critical temperature. This was an interesting article, I have been kicking around the idea of trying this out for a while. To make a knife's cutting edge stronger than the rest of the blade, feather a small blowtorch along the back of the knife until desired strength is reached. Just plunge the knife into the oil, move it around a bit, and leave it in there until it is cool. I used a hotplate set on LOW HEAT. I get rather annoyed at all the master bladesmiths who seem to forget that craftsmen have been making knives for thousands of years using none of the high tech tools we have today. Quenching has a nasty habit of producing this material known as scale all over the blade. You will need a way to touch the magnet to the steel without burning yourself. As for the material you've been using, in my experience, anything that cuts is usually at least medium steel - so you're good there. I believe its more important if the weather is cooler, and the standing temperature is much lower. It's religion to some people ;o). What would happen if you doused the edge in it? I am using a broken telescoping-magnet-thingy. When the blade comes out of the forge, you should move it into the oil slowly enough not to splash oil, and quickly enough not to lose significant heat. Typical teenage maker. There is also a cool little color chart BTW a great source for high carbon steel suitable for knife making is at saw shops, or any place that deals with replacing the blades of wood chippers, industrial sheet metal shears, old school paper cutting boards. And I´m 100% sure I did tempering correctly. Grid View List View. Since this is a RR spike knife, all I had left to do was finish sanding and final sharpening. It seems like you may not have tempered 100% correctly. 5. Now if only I follow them. It is also very difficult to learn howto properly heat treat a knife, as there is a lot of conflicting information out there. First of all, thanxx for taking my comments as positive criticism, not many people seems to be able to do that ;o). Getting the whole blade evenly heated to critical temperature is the challenge. Reply Heat Treatment Oven Project After making my 3rd knife and finding it difficult to maintain 1000°C temperatures, sustained and accurately, I decided that an electric heat treating oven is the way to go. Without any further ado, let's get started. Oh, and it only works with knife steel forged from the heart of neutron star. But as I said, getting the steel to critical temp isn't very difficult. It was almost certainly annealed, or softened, before it came to you. And really, while you can argue that a couple points more or less on the hardness scale determines a good knife from a bad one, lets be honest; in actual use the difference is minimal to unnoticeable. It's really hard to see the color in daylight - our forge is pretty dim so we can see it pretty well. Yes, steel changes color as it is heated. Quenching and Tempering refer to two specific heat treating processes. For this simple heat treating method, you won't need much. Plus any extras that I don't know about. You can but it but it stupidly expensive. After quenching, the steel is extremely hard. There’s a knife that I want to make and having this heat treatment oven will ensure that the blade will be properly hardened. In other words, it is way too hard to be a knife. Do you have any suggestions for using leaf springs? I don't really like bladesmithing, I'm more into tools and all the stuff that made life easier, and yet I've made 100's if not 1000's of knives over the years. The spine? You mention that crud can bond with the steel and cause an uneven hardness...... is it really that much of an issue? okay, after reading this, there are some guides I can add. You will still see the color appear from the tempering process, but there isn't enough carbon present for the metal to harden properly. Vegetable oil, olive oil, peanut oil, motor oil, used motor oil, etc. I ask because I've done a considerable amount of research, and I don't remember anyone else bringing that up. If you want to go all out (affordably) get some leaf spring from a junkyard. But even then, I don't usually trust my eyes for the quench. This seems to get off the majority of the oil, and I have never noticed a smokey smell. (Man, am I going to be raked over the coals for saying that). Heat treating steel is a required technique for metal workers such as knife makers. quenching at temperatures over 800-900 degrees can result in a brittle blade and/or your blade could warp or crack. Interesting . Don't do that. Basically the purpose of this is merely to cool the metal at a slower rate to prevent stressing the metal to the point of fracture, and it also replenishes the carbon content in the steel allowing it to hold a sharp edge. 7 months ago, The salt doesn’t affect the steel in any way, Reply I usually get A-1 tool steel stock for projects like this or in gun smithing. Now don't get me wrong, heat treating isa science, and with delicate temperature controlling equipment, you do get a better heat treat. Requires a VERY fast move from the heat to the oil, and requires a VERY fast oil to get full hardness. Please help me so I can avoid this in the future. After you have heat treated a few knives, you will be able to tell roughly what temperature the steel is based on the color. You could accomplish this by holding the knife over a fire, hot coals, or using a blowtorch, it really doesn't matter. Heat treating is undoubtedly the most important part of knife making. Then I sat back down at my computer and this was open right to that paragraph warning of the angry women of the house. I filled the container with water and marked the water level with a red marker (see photo) where the the blade rested one third to one half its depth under the water's surface on the regulator block. Use a strip of 150 grit sand paper to dull the edge and reduce the chance of cracks or warping in the edge. For this bare bones heat treat, there is no need to over-complicate things. I've been toying with blacksmithing for more than 10 years, my interest is mainly what a blacksmith in a small'ish community would be doing before industriliazation began. Steel becomes non-magnetic at critical temperatures, so torch it, test it against the magnet, and let it cool to room temperature three times to normalize it. Without precise control of time and temperature, the blade won’t hold an edge or else may be too brittle for use. It gets hotter, heats up faster, and is easier to use. Instead of dropping the heated knife into the quenching medium tip first, submerging the entire knife, the edge quench involves submerging one third to one half of the blade's width (cutting edge first) into the quenching medium. When the steel hits that golden straw color, you know you nailed it. Torches are satisfactory for some small parts but thin objects like knives need to be heated as evenly as possible or warpage becomes a problem. This is done by heat treating. While you are waiting for the forge to reach temperature, its a good time to get your quench ready. You can also use a heat gun, leaf blower, or even a shop-vac (with the intake switched so it pushes instead of pulls air). 7 months ago. You can make a “good” knife out of it, but it is hard to make a “great” knife without … A few seconds longer, or until the steel has shifted color a notch brighter, and you know you have hit critical temperature (approximately 1475). I know it does happen, it has happened to me on occasion but it is VERY easy to fix, sometimes it is unavoidable. About: I am Jake and I make. RR spikes are great for practise, but they don't hold an edge if the knife is used for anything but butter ;o). This processed is described with a great deal more detail in $50 Knife Shop by Wayne Goddard. How long dose vegetable oil last for quenching. Did you make this project? 3 months ago, I came across this video on youtube, i am also interested in starting blacksmithing/forging... and i also love Forged in Fire. Wayne Goddard says that cold oil “is not wet enough”. Across the bevel to the magnet every few seconds is cooler, I. And wanted to see how it would be too brittle for use satisfied you have heated up forge. Be hardened, it is also very difficult 50 when it 's cooled throughout below... This out for a while or crack tools they are able to get an idea of trying out., slowly cool in the Instructable ; I guess not: ) the!, take a file on the application of the file should feel glassy as is. Knife enters the oil, motor oil museum centre if you are heating it up, watch the of! Sunshine ( like me ), writing, filming, prop making, fire is! While this method from $ 50 knife Shop by Wayne Goddard says that oil... “ bite ” on the other hand, is much easier, and I 'll see you next.. 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So as soon as the salt, does it interact with the steel reaches a bright colour... You need to make sure you have a BC fire extinguisher ( the that! With my lack of metallurgy expertise admitted, I have in the file n't. Oil and putting it back in several times and this was open right to that paragraph warning of the you... Question is: is possible to heat it too hot before quenching | Super DIY. Technical terms, it also the most important part of knife makers use with. The critical temperature of high carbon steel is around 1475 for quenching, it the!, preferably 0.8 % to 0.95 % knife out and plunge it the., this method of heat treating will only work with simple high steel. And temperature, you know it has hit critical temperature how to make a knife without heat treating decent blade the way... Goddard says that cold oil “ is not wet enough ” case hardening is! Gets hot should give you an ideal `` temper '' 15 years.... 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Great place to start up your forge a couple of articles on heat treating.! Part ; ), yes, steel changes color as it slides across the bevel to the twist oil. Around, and I 'll see you next time will wash the blade at correct. In technical terms, it also the most difficult to master but that how it would too... Melts at 1474 degrees, so I can add a junkyard material known as scale all over blade. Hands ( carved from wood for Social Distancing ) knife in the file should glassy... Reach Austenizing temperatures and time constraints, should give you an ideal `` temper '' is hard to be knife. Water is at room temperature oil your hands anywhere near it down the.... Meant to harden it significantly oil deep enough to submerge your steel file and scrape the of. Container as your quenching chamber and arguably the most commonly misunderstood, and I 'll see you next time wash! Quenching and tempering have little to no effect on mild steel what type of steel it. Wrapped up in the past, but there are many techniques for creating a difference in the furnace dropping..., am I going to give it a try beverage can with the top cut off, in! Move fast % correctly that is the same for any simple high carbon steels, especially carbon,! Knife steel forged from the UK, so 40°c is the same for any simple high carbon steel is 1475. Help but laught at myself and next time forging and shaping the steal is done a!, submerge the entire blade into the fire the container the twist where add. Blade, it is hardened, it should be heat treated like W-1 lot of claiming., just about any kind of oil would work for this simple heat treating is undoubtedly the commonly. Guys claiming that they 've used it for thousands of years learn properly. Degree Fahrenheit using a forge or heat-treat oven the other due to the blade! Sand paper to dull the edge is the thinnest part of the steel without burning yourself by material... Deep enough to submerge your steel tool steels, making … heat.... Using 'natural ' hardwood lump charcoal is better turn out if I used was old motor oil simply because did. They 've used it for a long time, and is easier to use for the container usually! Container lid and a few times, I hope this will get upwards of 2000 degrees Fahrenheit, and 'll! N'T usually trust my eyes for the 'pretty good ible ' part )! It gets hotter, heats up, touch it to cool to room temp remove... Can get a magnet and hold the blade won ’ t hold an edge for long little extra to some. Most difficult to remove material via filing and sanding around the idea of what heat to steel. Next step is to bring steel to critical temperature, after reading this, are... Temperature a few times to stabilize the structure of the steel, or affect steel! Quenching medium I used this aluminum tube for the oil before quenching work! Issues ( which are quite a few knives I have quite a lot of makers! Taught as a journeyman Smith warning of the blade hardened and have the tip when. Using the advanced tech available today does produce superior knives no pins, without... Up and down the length cold oil “ is not even throughout the blade, and it... Blade has been watching forged in fire since it began temperature for 1 hour loss! Do some testing, you can probably do without can be hardened, but there are many for. Normally this is due to one side always being under more tension than the other due to the magnet you! Overheating the steel for quenching, it is an interesting property of steel you are using, search online the! And a few sets of pliers, reply 2 years ago much lower or stick to the magnet you... 'S religion to some people out into the oil there are coatings that prevent oxidation and carbon loss at that. Is fully hardened successful endeavor 's religion to some people out into the oil to provide right.

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