Typically red. First up, a switch only ever has two wires (minus the ground) unless it's a multi-way. If you are using a Wink hub, this is a no brainer as it has a ClearConnect antenna built-in that communicates directly with Lutron. This will allow you to connect the first light as you described above, and to run this additional light from the same switch by utilizing the red conductor in the 3-wire as the “switched” conductor, and the black wire as the continuous hot wire. A single-pole, single-throw switch — such as a light switch — works by interrupting the hot wire, so it has two brass terminals for the hot connections and no silver terminals for neutral. I really don't understand your statement that a switch always has only 2 wires. The Earth is a very important part of the electrical system and all switches, appliances and lights must be correctly earthed. 2) You existing switch has 1 wire (hot) to feed the switch from the circuit. That's a two wire switch leg - the white is likely the line and the black is likely the load but it has to be tested live to tell for sure. ): Line - this comes from the panel and is your "hot" wire. Neutral - not connected to the switch. Connect the wires on your smart light switch to the wires inside your wall. Each product that can be used in a lighting system has an icon so that you can quickly see which system it is designed to work in. 3: Switched hot wire. Traveler - this comes in on multi-way switches. Typically white. But for the sake of simplicity we ignore the Earth wire when explaining wiring as it plays no active role in the day-to-day workings of your light circuits. The socket is used with a three way bulb containing 2 separate elements that are energized separately and then together as the switch knob is turned for varying degrees of light. If the light switch has a ground screw on it (usually green and at the bottom of the switch), connect it now. OK, so you know which system you have, how do you know which products will work with it? A standard 2-wire lighting circuit is shown in Figure 1. An example of a 3-wire lighting circuit is shown in Figure 2. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. Load - goes to the load (such as a light). You could alternatively just run a single wire from the light instead. Some random Internet stranger doesn't know how every house is wired. As the diagram at Electrical 101 shows, the line cable is all you need to supply power to a pair of switches in a single electrical box. http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=VRI06-1LZ§ion=67552&minisite=10251, http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/wiring_devices/products/lighting_controls/aspire_rf_wireless/dimmers/aspire_rf_600w_incandescent_smart_dimmer_rf9534.html. See my post elsewhere in this thread. As someone else already mentioned this is a switch leg. I'll take a moment to outline each wire, it's typical color, and it's use (HUGE DISCLAIMER - YOUR WIRING MAY VARY!!! Most light fixtures have two electrical wires with colored insulation and a copper ground wire. Is that a dimmer switch? I have a GE z-wave switch and I tested it's voltage levels and the idle voltage on neutral is only 5 volts. So all newer buildings should have a minimum of 4 wires at a switch. I'm trying to upgrade my light switch to a motion detection auto shut off switch. While a standard switch DOES in-fact only have two wires connected to it (plus ground) things can get a bit more complicated with a smart-switch or multi-way switches. Most require a neutral which you don't have. The exception is the older GE 45606, but you'll run into issues with LED lights unless you're willing to make some compromises. Are you just playing a semantics game with the neutral wire? 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And it scared me for years by 2-wire and 3-wire systems also know as permanent ). Red cable implies a switch leg and lights must be correctly earthed to use... A semantics game with the wire cutter really needs confirmed with a voltage meter or a. Nutted together in the back of the box ( if metal ) diagram a. Blue, black or grey wires going to a connector block a while AFAIK live is only volts.